Tips for Hunting Dji Sam Soe Abroad

The Dji Sam Soe brand (pronounced G SAHM SOO), produced in the Indonesian port city of Surabaya since 1913, is considered by many as Indonesia's ultimate clove cigarette.

Filterless and handrolled, containing a blend of American and Javanese tobacco, flavoured with Sulawesi cloves, the brand's ownership has recently shifted to, yes, Philip Morris (after PM bought out the majority of PT. H.M. Sampoerna's stocks in 2004/2005).

There's only one agonizing pitfall for every Dji Sam Soe enthusiast or addict. Its lack of filter and high nicotine contents (Nicotine 2.3 mg, Tar 39 mg) earned the brand a 'no import' status in many countries. While other filtered Indonesian brands like Gudang Garam or Sampoerna A Mild are legally exported to Europe, Asia and even South America, Dji Sam Soe rarely passes the standard maximum nicotine limit barrier.

So here are some clues where to find (mostly smuggled) Dji Sam Soes in the most obscure places around Southeast Asia outside Indonesia:

CAMBODIA

Phnom Penh: The Bali Cafe (379, Sisowath Quay, Mekong waterfront) occasionally stocks them for US$ 2.00/pack. The local Khmer (or Cham?) staff speak excellent Bahasa Indonesia, though the Restaurant is owned by a Malaysian Chinese (faithful being Truly Asia ??)


THAILAND

Bangkok: Look for the cigarette stalls around Ramkamhang University. Why ? Clove cigarettes are widely associated with 'muslims' (only God knows why), and it's no coincidence that many Pattani Malays ('Southern Thais') study at Ramkamhang. Depends on luck. (Sampoerna A Mild is more widely available) 60 Bahts/pack. (Thanks to Sittha Lertphaiboonsiri)

MALAYSIA

Penang:
a) Restoran Padang Pusako, near the Central Police Station (Balai Polis). Of course it's not put on display. The owner will usually deny at first stocking them. So, order some food, have a chat, and ask again. Expect RM 3.50/pack.
b) Some obscure cosmetic shop at the basement of the KOMTAR Bus Terminal building.

Melaka:
Fruit stall #9 (Chinese owned) at the market right in front of the Melaka intercity bus terminal. When in doubt, ask any group of squatting men around the Terminal (they're usually Indonesian migrant workers on R&R, spending their hardwon salaries on recharging their mobile phones).

Kuala Lumpur:
Everybody knows Chow Kit lah. No need to explain.

Kajang (Selangor):
a) Central Market: look for the white Shopmobiles (selling Indonesian medicines, minyak angin, bintang toedjoe, jamu, etc.) on Saturday mornings.
b) Same white shopmobiles also frequently visit the Kajang Central Bus Station (Pusat Hentian Kajang)

Bangi (Selangor):
Cigarette stalls at the Bangi Night Market (Pekan Malam Bangi)

Kuching (Sarawak):
The cheapest Dji Sam Soe you can find, smuggled straight out from West Kalimantan - RM 2.50/pack (cheaper compared to its original Indonesian price). Look for the cigarette stall in front of the taxi & van terminal near Electra House.

Miri (Sarawak):
a)Look for the small WARTEL (telephone stall) next to Pelita Tunku building. Owned by a Chinese. If you don't have the looks of an 'Indon' (= scruffy) he will deny selling them.
b) The 4th meatbutcher from the left at the Central Meat Market.

Belaga (Sarawak):
The only Chinese minimarket in this sleepy upriver town sells Dji Sam Soe at the cashier. RM 2.00.
No wonder, Belaga is the third capital of the Sarawak Logging Republic (after Sibu & Kapit), with a majority consisting of Indonesian logging workers.

Tawau:
Haven't been there yet. I'm sure the Bugis sell them.


almost forgot...


SINGAPORE
No Chance

But what does this whole subaltern marketing of Dji Sam Soe tell us ? How are these markets identified (those involved need at least some cultural and demographic knowledge). Another interesting question: what kind of social interfaces and networks are created and involved in this whole transnational underground marketing of a single pack of Dji Sam Soe ?
(upcoming: the Ethography of Commodity Flows)

Happy hunting...