Cockfighting in Upriver Sarawak: E-Gov Makes Things (not quite) Easier

Apai Regang is expected to download a permit in PDF form if he wants to see his cock fight

E-MALAYSIA

When former Prime Minister Dr. Mahathir Mohamad urgently called for Malaysia's cyber-wiring back in 1996, the entire nation was dragged into an obsessive hi-tech internet craze, spearheaded by such Orwellian-sounding megaprojects like 'Cyberjaya', 'Malaysia Multimedia Super-Corridor', 'Technopreneur Development', 'Smart Schools', 'E-Bario Project'. E-Gov.

In line with Dr. M's national call to get cyber-wired, the Malaysian government urged State governments to set-up e-gov (electronic government) websites all the way down to Resident and District Offices to improve efficiency of information dissemination, governance and public services. And yes, this call even resonated down to the deep verdant jungles of East Malaysia's Borneo States of Sarawak and Sabah. (we'll return to this e-gov thing in a moment)

Kapit Division in Sarawak is a predominantly rural and forested area, inhabited by numerous ethnic groups that still practice swidden (incorrectly called 'slash-and-burn') agriculture, among which the Dayak Iban constitute a significant majority. The majority of Ibans reside in traditional longhouses along the banks of the Batang Rejang and Balleh rivers , and while there has been a longstanding trend of urbanisation from upriver longhouses to major cities, Iban traditions are still well-kept in place.

Map Kapit Division in Sarawak


THE IBANS OF SARAWAK

Known in the past for being land-hungry, independent and ferocious headhunters, the Ibans had to be painstakingly subjugated under strict rulings by successive Sarawak governments ever since the arrival of Sir James Brooke, the first White Rajah of Sarawak, back in 1841. After Iban inter-tribal warfare and headhunting were finally laid to rest in 1924, 'Iban problems' were far from over. The Brooke government was subsequently plagued by efforts in preventing Ibans from migrating northwards in search for better economic opportunities offered by the discovery of oil reserves in Miri and Brunei. One major problem was the oft-resulting land disputes among Ibans and communities in their new destinations. For this, the Brooke government had to enforce numerous regulations to prevent Ibans from out migrating from their very homelands around Kapit, and Ibans were required well into the 1960s to carry travel permits wherever they intended to go, even within Sarawak.

Other restrictions placed upon Ibans since the Brooke period was related to gambling, often the result of debt problems between Ibans and Chinese traders - or the main cause of personal vendettas that often resulted in brawls and homicides. What has been difficult for successive governments to keep in check, however, was gambling in the guise of cockfight gatherings during traditional Iban celebrations such as Gawai (harvest feast) or death ceremonies. Hence, Ibans were for a longtime required to apply for 'Cockfight Permits' (Lesen Sabong Ayam) from the Kapit Resident Office.

While travel permit requirements for Ibans were lifted more than 40 years ago, Cockfight Permits made it well into the age of cyberspace...


COCKFIGHT PERMITS ? DOWNLOAD IT...

The e-gov website of the Kapit Resident's office is a fancy and well-designed homepage (its sister-website owned by the Kapit District Council even requires you to have a Flash plugin!), complete with information for tourists, as well as downloadable government forms for locals in PDF format. (i.e., Marriage Application forms, Business licence applications, etc.). This includes the Cockfight Permit.

Download Cockfight Permit ('Lesen Sabong Ayam'):
http://www.kapitro.sarawak.gov.my/php/main/english/kapitro/pdf/cock-fighting.pdf


Here's the catch. Since cockfighting throughout the Kapit Division is a predominantly Iban cultural practice, the website's administrator surely must have uploaded the forms anticipating masses of Iban downloaders in mind.

Now consider this:

- None of the Iban longhouses throughout the Division enjoys telephone, let alone internet connection.
- There's only one internet cafe throughout the Division, so it would cost an Iban (if he's a computer-literate) RM 2.30 to obtain and print a cockfight permit (RM 2.00 minimum internet time + 30 cents for printing two pages).
- This internet cafe is located by coincidence next to the Resident's Office in Kapit where, ironically, hardcopies of Cockfight Permits can be obtained for FREE.

But again, it takes 3 to 5 hours by river for an ordinary upriver Iban to reach Kapit town - so it would take him at least one full day back-and-forth just to obtain (download?) the permit application. He then has to return to his longhouse upriver to have this application signed by the longhouse leader (Tuai Rumah), plus another trip to hand in the filled application to the Resident. This all would cost an Iban 2 days travelling time back-and-forth and at least RM 100 for travel costs.

A single cockfight rarely lasts longer than 3 minutes, so would anyone expect Ibans to care about these permits at all?

Roots of Asian Nationalisms & Globalisation (Notes from a talk by Benedict Anderson)

"WE KEEP ON DISCOVERING NEW THINGS FROM THE PAST, AND CURRENT TRENDS OF TRYING TO BREAK UP HISTORY INTO THESE STUPID BOMBASTIC ADVERTISER-TYPE TIMELINES (E.G."POST-COLD WAR this", "POST-WW II that", "POST-9/11 this") SERVES NOTHING BUT TO OBSTRUCT OUR EFFORTS IN UNDERSTANDING HOW GLOBALIZATION OPERATES"

I just stumbled upon old notes I took from a talk that Prof. Benedict R. O'G Anderson gave last year at the Center for Southeast Asian Studies (CSEAS), Kyoto University. Not intending to litter this blog with overtly indigestible academic stuff, it's nonetheless very stimulating...a critical and reflective talk that doesn't take 'globalisation' as we know it, for granted.

To the uninformed, Benedict Anderson authored the influential book "Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism" back in 1983. He is known in Indonesia for having co-authored "A Preliminary Analysis of the October 1 1965 Coup in Indonesia" (1966 - popularly known as "The Cornell Papers"), which concluded that the Indonesian Army (hence, Suharto) had prior knowledge to the events. For this, he was banned from visiting Indonesia by Suharto's New Order regime from 1966 to 1998 (including physical humiliation at Halim airport in 1981 when he was lured by Indonesian authorities to attend a seminar in Jakarta)

=================

CSEAS Talk - 27 April 2005

Topic: 'Macam Macam' (BA's own words)

"Twenty two years have passed since I wrote Imagined Communities...it has been quoted, praised and criticized over the years, and I've come to a certain point where I feel I have lost ownership of it. Imagined Communities is just like a little girl that has grown up and ran away to marry a truck driver from somewhere...I have now relinquished any left responsibilities over her..."

"I have my own share of criticisms aginst Imagined Communities. I treated 'Nationalisms' as separate and fixed analytical units..and that is the disadvantage if one attempts to undertake a comparative study. It's just like I've looked at the stars, and I could only go as far as commenting "oh, that's a bright star", "that's a little star"....Imagined Communities went as far as recognizing the main threads, the similarities or differences of these nationalisms, such as the role of print capitalism, colonial education, ....but back then, in my own naivete, i wasn't able to capture the larger interrelationships, or the larger forces of gravity that gave rise to these nationalisms."

"This is exactly the point which I'm intending to return to, and I will start by seeking explanations to the following question:
"What was the global field of gravity that gave birth to all these nationalisms - or what was the global field of gravity in which these nationalisms were able to operate during their initial stages ?"

"This brought me back to the question of rethinking the crucial elements of early 'globalization' that occurred during the latter half of the 19th century (1870 - 1900), in my opinion one of the most interesting periods in history. Two inventions were crucial in the birth of early globalization:

1) The invention of fast, cheap & safe modes of travel - the railway, the steamship: the sudden mass movements of people, the increased flow of ideas

2) Instant modes of communication - the telegraph: news about revolts and revolutions were instantly transmitted around the world...experiences of people in different parts of the world became instantly and vividly accessible...."

"We can look at all these revolution and nationalist movements around the world during that time as operating within a covert sub-global structure...waging covert projects through the technological advantages of early global communications, and in many ways, it renders my previous East-West model (the idea of Western nationalism being copied by post-colonial subjects) irrelevant. (DL: think of Chatterjee ?) Some nationalist movements in Asia and the Americas even preceded nationalist movements in Europe, e.g. Filipino nationalism is way much older than, let's say, Irish or Scottish nationalisms."

"Also, we have to situate this sudden outbreak of revolutions and nationalisms around the world within the vacuum period in the left-wing camp, that is the period between the death of Marx (1883) and the rise of Lenin to celebrity status in the 1920s. The Left during this vacuum was dominated by the Anarchists, particularly those based in France & Italy. These small bands of anarchists were involved all around the world, overthrowing & assassinating kings, dictators, reactionaries (e.g. Austria, Montenegro, etc). In many cases, these militant anarchists were the first 'suicide bombers'. This, coupled with rapid development of the global press (+ the invention of photo-relaying techniques), suddenly placed the anarchists in celebre spotlights around the world - inspiring oppressed peoples as far as Asia and the Americas, with ideas that revolutions (& violence) are viable alternatives to social change."

"The international postal-service, intiated in 1874, was also one way through which anarchist ideas about revolution were disseminated. As early as the late 1890s, French anarchist newsletters had permanent subscribers in more than 20 countries around the world, spanning from Europe to East Asia to Latin America."

"The revolution in the Philippines, the oldest nationalist movement in Asia, itself inspired by creole revolutions waged in the Carribean states (Cuba), inspired the birth of the Chinese nationalist movement against the Manchus...so again, this all wouldn't be possible without the existence of a global communication system. We also have to look at the itinerant characters behind it. Jose Rizal travelled to Japan, coming in contact with early Chinese nationalists, and heading afterwards towards Europe through the US. This was all made possible by fast & cheap transportation (the steamship). This was way before the era of Tan Malaka or Ho Chi Minh, both who were itinerant characters as well."

"We keep on discovering new things about the past, and the current trend of trying to break up history into these stupid bombastic advertiser-type timelines (e.g. 'post-WW II', 'post-9/11', 'post-Cold War') serves nothing but to obstruct our efforts in understanding how globalization operates."

"This will be among others the focus of my forthcoming book."

=============

(DL: "Under Three Flags: Anarchism and the Anti-Colonial Imagination" - was published in Jan. 2006 by Verso)

Tips for Hunting Dji Sam Soe Abroad

The Dji Sam Soe brand (pronounced G SAHM SOO), produced in the Indonesian port city of Surabaya since 1913, is considered by many as Indonesia's ultimate clove cigarette.

Filterless and handrolled, containing a blend of American and Javanese tobacco, flavoured with Sulawesi cloves, the brand's ownership has recently shifted to, yes, Philip Morris (after PM bought out the majority of PT. H.M. Sampoerna's stocks in 2004/2005).

There's only one agonizing pitfall for every Dji Sam Soe enthusiast or addict. Its lack of filter and high nicotine contents (Nicotine 2.3 mg, Tar 39 mg) earned the brand a 'no import' status in many countries. While other filtered Indonesian brands like Gudang Garam or Sampoerna A Mild are legally exported to Europe, Asia and even South America, Dji Sam Soe rarely passes the standard maximum nicotine limit barrier.

So here are some clues where to find (mostly smuggled) Dji Sam Soes in the most obscure places around Southeast Asia outside Indonesia:

CAMBODIA

Phnom Penh: The Bali Cafe (379, Sisowath Quay, Mekong waterfront) occasionally stocks them for US$ 2.00/pack. The local Khmer (or Cham?) staff speak excellent Bahasa Indonesia, though the Restaurant is owned by a Malaysian Chinese (faithful being Truly Asia ??)


THAILAND

Bangkok: Look for the cigarette stalls around Ramkamhang University. Why ? Clove cigarettes are widely associated with 'muslims' (only God knows why), and it's no coincidence that many Pattani Malays ('Southern Thais') study at Ramkamhang. Depends on luck. (Sampoerna A Mild is more widely available) 60 Bahts/pack. (Thanks to Sittha Lertphaiboonsiri)

MALAYSIA

Penang:
a) Restoran Padang Pusako, near the Central Police Station (Balai Polis). Of course it's not put on display. The owner will usually deny at first stocking them. So, order some food, have a chat, and ask again. Expect RM 3.50/pack.
b) Some obscure cosmetic shop at the basement of the KOMTAR Bus Terminal building.

Melaka:
Fruit stall #9 (Chinese owned) at the market right in front of the Melaka intercity bus terminal. When in doubt, ask any group of squatting men around the Terminal (they're usually Indonesian migrant workers on R&R, spending their hardwon salaries on recharging their mobile phones).

Kuala Lumpur:
Everybody knows Chow Kit lah. No need to explain.

Kajang (Selangor):
a) Central Market: look for the white Shopmobiles (selling Indonesian medicines, minyak angin, bintang toedjoe, jamu, etc.) on Saturday mornings.
b) Same white shopmobiles also frequently visit the Kajang Central Bus Station (Pusat Hentian Kajang)

Bangi (Selangor):
Cigarette stalls at the Bangi Night Market (Pekan Malam Bangi)

Kuching (Sarawak):
The cheapest Dji Sam Soe you can find, smuggled straight out from West Kalimantan - RM 2.50/pack (cheaper compared to its original Indonesian price). Look for the cigarette stall in front of the taxi & van terminal near Electra House.

Miri (Sarawak):
a)Look for the small WARTEL (telephone stall) next to Pelita Tunku building. Owned by a Chinese. If you don't have the looks of an 'Indon' (= scruffy) he will deny selling them.
b) The 4th meatbutcher from the left at the Central Meat Market.

Belaga (Sarawak):
The only Chinese minimarket in this sleepy upriver town sells Dji Sam Soe at the cashier. RM 2.00.
No wonder, Belaga is the third capital of the Sarawak Logging Republic (after Sibu & Kapit), with a majority consisting of Indonesian logging workers.

Tawau:
Haven't been there yet. I'm sure the Bugis sell them.


almost forgot...


SINGAPORE
No Chance

But what does this whole subaltern marketing of Dji Sam Soe tell us ? How are these markets identified (those involved need at least some cultural and demographic knowledge). Another interesting question: what kind of social interfaces and networks are created and involved in this whole transnational underground marketing of a single pack of Dji Sam Soe ?
(upcoming: the Ethography of Commodity Flows)

Happy hunting...

Batam's Jaded Dream

Back in 1973, Presidential Decree no. 41 was full of big developmentalist dreams and hopes. Batam Island was the big ambition of the day, something our Indonesian Government projected to be "The next big thing after Singapore around the Malacca Strait"...

Big hopes indeed for Batam back then: A projected bustling freeport Island, torrents of investments pouring in, a resort heaven, shopping paradise, a bustling international hub...you name it.

Thirty-three years on - and Batam is in full swing, indeed. Third rate Indonesian, Singaporean and Malaysian businessmen coming for sex, shadowy businesses, shantytowns, illegal taxis, bustling sex trade, human trafficking, illegal gambling, and thousands of unemployed young men from all around Indonesia (Timor, Medan, Tanjung Balai, Central Java, Manado, Palembang, Padang..) scraping for bits and pieces of the (faded) Batam dream, with the usual baggage of sporadic ethnic clashes here and there...

Batam quite reminds us of those other less-fortunate ("cheap leisure proxies") Southeast Asian border cities...think of Hatyai (Thailand), or Poipet (Cambodia) - still, it was a strategic rallying point for anti-IMF/World Bank activists to lambast the ever paranoid and authoritarian Singapore government for harrasing and banning civil society organizations from monitoring the Big Money proceedings.

Global, not quite...
Hang Nadim Airport: Counter for Job Seekers. Is the system running at all?
A peek outside the hotel: Disposed tissues, cigarette packs, condoms. Helps in profiling your average Batam visitor...

Bordercrossing: Morphing Back to Indonesian TV

Indonesian TV welcoming me back again in paradise.......on the ferry from Singapore to Batam:

1) Bird Flu
2) The usual price hikes before Idul Fitri
3) Bus drivers on strike again...
4) The man-made Mudflood disaster in East Java...still going strong after 100 days

The Other Multicultural Singapore

A KTV in Orchard road.
Need better statistics to explain the real racial demographics of Singapore ?

Kyoto Hooked on Indonesian Kretek Cigarettes?

Gudang Garamu Mairudo

These Gudang Garam clove cigarettes (320 Yen/pack), manufactured in Kediri, East Java are sold widely throughout Japan, even in this small tobacco corner at Kawaramachi-Imadegawa-dori, 200m from the Kyoto Imperial Palace, where it even takes vending machine status (meaning it's a quick seller). As the Indonesian community in Kyoto is quite small, one can only guess that many Nihon-jins are indeed Kretek obsessives.